Various issues, doubts, questions... about knives 2

Various issues, doubts, questions... about knives 2

Introduction

We continue with the second part of this series of articles where i would like to try to respond, reflect and discuss issues that i see much everywhere. I do not want to impose anything on anyone, but yes to get an analysis and reflection on different facts or very frequent questions...

Issues and questions

The mixed edge is best ... no, plain edge, not serrated...

Answer: Normally, nothing is better, but yes better for some things than others. A knife with a large blade width and thickness to near the tip will be good for bushcraft but not so self-defense, and viceversa. With the kind of edge it's the same, and there is an article in the blog about edge types so i will not dwell. According to your usual tasks choose one or the other. If only short fibrous materials and rope, you might want full sawed, if wood carvings, do tips on sticks, fruit peel etc. you will want one plain. The mixed has the best of both, but with little space for each edge, can be used to start cutting fibrous materials and finish with the smooth edge. To me it is my least favorite, but it's just my taste. My favorite is the plain edge.

Never buy a fixed knife with a saw.

Answer: Well, the first thing I would say, depends on the saw. Is a saw in the main edge? if it is, sure than is a type of fibrous materials saw, in this case to me (and only me) i would not take him because i believe that by pressure and making a chopping motion with a plain edge you are going to cut that material. I prefer a completely plain edge. Now, if the saw is on the back... it depends, if it is on the back almost certain will be a wood saw (sometimes no, but i do not like nothing that), if the saw is for wood i want one thing very simple: that cut wood, and that does not always happen, if the saw is ornamental i do not want it, it will only serve to engage in things, to hinder the penetration of the blade and for breaking the stick you use in "batoning". If the saw cuts wood really i do not care the knife has it, those of "crenellated" type seem to work well.

Never buy a folder knife or fixed knife with a lot of weight

Answer: It is true that i have always seen many people who have real phobia to carry very heavy folder or fixed knives and immediately discard a model just for that. I can not tell you how much weight you want to take. If it’s an output in the field or bushcraft activities the weight matter because to the weight of the equipment and backpack must add the weight of steel you wear.

There are fixed knives that weigh 1 kg even, and what i observe, many people with large and heavy fixed knives are not usually out by the weight and they choose other alternatives lighter. In the case of folder knives there are people who are scared if they pass 100 gr. In my case I'm not worried, and i agree to carry a 200 gr knife in exchange for security and forcefulness.

Fixed knives often outweigh folder knives because they tend to be larger, but again to me specifically i do not mind carrying weight change forcefulness, but everything has a limit too.

In my case (and only in mine) could put a limit (not strictly) of 220 grams as much for a folder knife and 500 grams for a fixed knife.

I bought a knife that has a lot of hills, up, down, short wires, hole friction and make fire, and knobby everywhere. It's very cool, it  must be the best in the world!.

Answer: There are knives that seem designed to attract attention, but is useless what it brings. I Specify, or it’s useless or what brings isn’t useful for you at all. If a saw is ornamental, to nobody is going to be useful and what it will do is to be uncomfortable for other things, if it brings a hole in the handle to make fire by friction... you're going to make fire with a stick and rubbing? Are you going to cut many fences in the field?.

Beware knives that are made to attract attention but are useless in practice, either because what brings not work or they are not going to be useful for you. Look other features better. Think about the number of major global houses of cutlery that have simple and functional designs, will be for something.

Never buy a knife that is not full tang, it will break.

Answer: I admit that i like full tang knives and for me is a plus. But that does not mean that a non full tan is going to break, indeed, to say that is not full tang is like to say nothing, since there are from knives pseudo-full tangs in which the blade is almost as wide as an full tang until very thin and welded to the blade ridiculously.

One question is also: what will you do with the knife? To chop? buy one full tango r with a good tang if you stay with the handle in the hand. Are you going to sharpen sticks in the field, cutting food, defend yourself or things like that? It can be partial tang.

Does it mean that if i chop with a knife than it’s not full tang it will break? no, it means that are more likely to do so than if it is full tang. No need to break, depends on the type of tang, welding quality, the material of the tang, manufacturer quality, your intensity of hit...

I make hard test of folder knives or fixed knives without using any special protection, nothing is going to happen.

Answer: You never believe you're safe. Always use your head and think about what happens if there is a fault, are you sure you do not occur anything? please think in the worst and once there think what protective measures you can use.

If choping with a knife the blade breaks from the handle, where would the blade go? Maybe forward, maybe backward, it can rebound in the trunk or branch and goes to the face... do your eyes are protected? is the most sensitive area for hurting and for repairing after. Use protection glasses, it will work the used in industrial environments. Sure you have seen many times. They have a minimum cost.

If a folder knife closes, would it reach to your fingers? would it reach the bone?. Be careful, there are very very sharp knives with lock systems that can fail. If you do hit test on the back of the blade (there are other better ways to test the lock system) do not put your fingers in the path of the blade (I've seen to do that test grabbing the handle fully). Look, when you do a binary test, two things can only pass, or fail blocking or not, and you have to be prepared for everything that happens.

In case you're working with the folder knife, it is clear that you are grabbing with all hand so it is inevitably a damage if occurs an accident, would depend on the strength you were exercising. If you have to do a lot of strength in your task, use a fixed knife.

To comment that there gloves of various types for use of folder or fixed knives, some with specific anti-cut protection. Among the materials used: leather, reinforced nylon with braided steel, steel chain, kevlar...